Jamdani saris were very well known to the Bengali women as heir to the old muslin cloth of ancient times. Jamdani cloth is made by designing muslin. Jamdani is usually meant as a sardi. But jamdani was made of nakshi veena, kurta, turban, rumal, curtain etc. also. In the 1700s, there was a tradition of jewelery designers Sherwani. Besides, Jamdani used to be used for regional clothing ranges of Mughal Nepal.
There are different kinds of doctrines about the name of Jamdani. According to a view, the word ‘jamdani’ comes from the Persian language. Persian clothes means clothes and grains in the womb, in that sense Jamdani means weaved clothes. That is why Muslims are believed to have introduced and expanded Jamdani in the Indian subcontinent. According to another, in Persian, the meaning of jam means one kind of fine wine and daani meaning cup. Jamdani name originated from muslin wearing Iranian psyche. According to the design, there are different names of Jamdani such as Tarcha, Jalpaar, Panna Hazar, Corolla, Dublajal, Sabarga, Balihar, Shapala Flowers, Vines, Mayurpachpar, Bighanali, Kalamilata, Chandrapar, Jhumka, Butidaar, Jhalar, Mayurpakhha, Pewitya, Kalkapar, Kuppata, Butterfly, Jubby, Hansbalka, Shabnam, Jhumka, Jabafal etc.
Basically, the district of Dhaka district of Bangladesh got the excellence of muslin. The area of Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Titibari, Bajitpur, Jangalbari etc. of Dhaka district was famous for muslin. Merchants from European, Iranian, Armenian, Mugal, Pathan etc. were involved in the business of muslin and Jamdani. Because of this, then the Heads of State also played a role in this industrial development. The golden age of the dhakai muslin is called the Mughal period. During this time muslin and Jamdani demand increased in the country and abroad, and there was also a great improvement in the industry.
In the middle of the nineteenth century, according to one estimate of Jamdani and Muslin, 50,000 taka of Jamada used to use Nawabs of Delhi, Lakshmu Nepal, Murshidabad etc. in white land. This industry was shrinking and then there were some reasons for the extinction, mainly due to the industrial revolution of England. This resulted in the arrival of machines in the textile industry and the production of printing cloth began at a lower price. Besides, the price of the yellow cotton thread was less than the domestic thread. The Mughal emperors and their royal employees became irresponsible towards this industry, and gradually the muslin and Jamdani artillery were lost in black hole.
In the 21st century, renowned fashion designer Biplob Saha has been working for a long time, with the possibility of full development of Bangladesh’s Jamdani industry. In the 1700s, Jamdani’s second use encourages him to think about the possibility of full development of this industry. His effort is to connect Jamdani with Halfashan in his neutral work.
Biplob Saha is working on the history of this country, and in a wide range of evaluations of tradition. One of the fashion brands of this country “Color” since 1994, for the varied work of fashion conscious people, the love of the humble, humble heart is the reward of today’s “twenty color”. Its observational work in the fashion world, in the fashion world, is the in-depth effort of the fashion conscious. The traditions of this country – the richness of the hobby, the Nakshishi fan, the Bengal paddock, Rixa Motif, the Kantaji temple terracotta, like the precious motif, as a garment ornament, wants to take the country’s fashion to prosperity.
Jamnani’s full-length development has improved the sarees by using Patan at different times, in Jamdanese Lehanga, Sherwani, Punjabi, Northern, Princekot etc. Native wedding dress culture is a little effort from Uttranchan to get the foreign garment culture aggression. Basically, there is a weaving industry in the form of Jamdani descent. At present, the weaving industry and weaving industry are facing the financial crisis due to the marketing crisis, in other occupations. From this crisis, the answer to this tradition is possible only through answer. Biplob Saha is going to do neoclassical work through the medium of different uses of Jamdani to show the path of reply from this crisis. The greater the use, the more the marketing will be. The art of survival, weaving artists, we will get back to our golden heritage.
Photos:Collected from Biplob saha
Text: Saif Rahman Sozib